A Pitigliano restaurant recommendation. There are a dozen "ristoranti a Pitigliano" in which to eat out in in the spectacular town of Pitigliano Italy, but this one is a recommendation of a resident artist I met while exploring this extraordinary place in Maremma.
My requirements for lunch were a simple plate of home-cooked pasta - nothing fancy with more decoration than substance! - and he recommended two places near the Chiesa di San. Rocco (the church of San Rocco or Santa Maria).
Trattoria La Chiave del Paradiso was the first of the two I came upon after leaving his workshop in the Piazza A. Becherini in Capisotto, the western-most and oldest part of Pitigliano, and heading back into the town.
NOTE: the piazza has fabulous not to be missed views over the merging green valleys of the Lente and the Meleta and the Santuario della Madonna delle Grazie on the hillside opposite.
The menu looked nice and straightforward, with prices less than others I had seen for the same typical Maremman dishes in other restaurants in the town, but what convined me to give it a try was the huge smile and warm welcome of the owner as he saw me reading the menu. And the fact that all of the meat and olive oil that they use in the restaurant is their own farm produce - "olio extravergine di oliva e carne produzione propria".
By the way, their olive oil is great with a less intense and peppery flavour than our own in Maremma.
There are covered tables outside if you like to eat al fresco - which all of the tourists eating there that day decided to do - but I opted to eat in the cooler environment of indoors (with the locals).
For those of you who like reading Italian food menus (I do!), the all important Trattoria La Chiave del Paradiso menu:
Antipasti - Hors d'oeuvresAntipasto del Pardiso Crostini misti Bruschetta al pomodoro Sott' oli misti Antipasto di cinghiale Antipasto misto toscano Antipasti locale Prosciutto e melone Caprese |
Primi piatti- StartersAcqua cotta Pici all'agliata Pici del Paradiso (con carciofi e pancetta affumicata) Pici alle melanzane Tortelli burro e salvia Tortelli al ragu Pappardelle al cinghiale Tagliatelle al ragu Tagliatelle ai funghi porcini Gnocchi ai tre formaggi Pasta con verdura e mozzarella |
Secondi piatti - Main coursesTortino di verdure Cinghiale alla maremmana Buglione di agnello Crostone di formaggio e vedure di stagione Bistecca di manzo alla griglia Fiorentina di manzo alla griglia Tagliata di manzo con rucola e parmigiano Tagliata di manzo con funghi porcini Grigliata mista di maiale Bistecca di maiale alla griglia Salsicce di maiale alla griglia Arrosta di vitella Scaloppine al limone Pollo alla griglia Formaggio locale Polenta con funghi porcini Polenta con cinghiale Polenta con ragu di cinghiale |
Contorni - VegetablesInsalata verde Insalata mista Patate alla contadina Spinaci al burro Spinaci saltati 0 all'agro Fagioli all'olio Verdure grigliate Broccoli saltati Cicoria saltata |
Dolci - DessertsPanna cotta Cantucci e vin santo Spumino di ricotta Torta di ricotta con marmellata di visciole Torta al limone Sfratti pitigliano e vin santo |
Menu turisticoPrimo piatto a scelta: Acqua cotta Secondo piatto a scelta: Scaloppine al limone Contorno a scelta: Insalata verde 1/4 di vino e caffè Pane e coperto |
To give you an idea of prices, the antipasti range from €3,50 to €8,00, the primi piatti from €6,00 to €7,50, the secondi piatti from to €5,50 to €15,00 with the steaks priced as is usual in Italy by weight in kilos, the contorni from €2.50 to €3,50, the dolce from €3,50 to €4,00, and the tourist menu was €17,50. The bread and cover charge is €1,50.
I opted for a light lunch as I was planning to explore the awe inspiring local Vie Cave afterwards and so chose the house pasta dish of Pici del Paradiso with a tasty combination of artichokes and smoked bacon (at €7,50). Perfect.
The Chiave del Paradiso is closed on Mondays.
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Via Vignoli, 209
Pitigliano (Grosseto)
Tel: 0564 614141
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